Reverse French braid (left) and normal French braid (right)

Now that everyone needs to be multi-talented to gain an edge in the industry, we're being taught some simple hairstyling techniques. So over the next fortnight or so, we'll be learning to section, trim, blow-wave, curl, style and set hair.

The first two lessons were fun and introductory to get us familiarised with our human-hair mannequin heads. We started with a simple ponytail and then spent most of the time learning different styles of plaiting and braiding. I did a reverse French braid for the first time and was surprised to learn I'm not the only one. There were some girls who have never done a braid before!

Plus, can you believe the amount of work that actually goes into a ponytail?!

1. Section hair on top and sides of head, then backcomb at roots for volume.
2. Brush hair back into a ponytail grasped with one hand and secured with an elastic.
3. Insert a tailcomb just under the first layer of hair and gently lift for volume. Do this repeatedly until the head has a nice rounded shape.
4. Spray a comb or hands with hairspray and smooth down any fly-aways.
5. Take a small section of hair from under the ponytail and use it to wrap around elastic to hide it from view. Secure with a bobby pin.

Half head of hot rollers and GHD curling underneath

And you thought it was just grabbing the hair back to be tied. :)

Oh, and I learnt a cool trick with an elastic and two bobby pins:

1. Attach two bobby pins to an elastic band. Move the pins so they are on opposite sides of the band to each other.
2. Brush the hair into a ponytail and held in one hand
3. With the other hand, push a bobby pin downwards into the top of the ponytail
4. Wrap the elastic around the ponytail until it can't stretch any further, then push the second bobby pin in to ponytail to secure.

This method is much faster and less messy than pulling the ponytail through an elastic, where it's likely to catch or pull on the hair.

xxEva

Taeyang & Troublemaker-inspired photoshoot with Idle Images (I'm being used as a stand-in model/prop again...)

Even makeup school has to have benchmarks on the good, the bad and the horrible. So if you think it's all just a breezy class of painting faces and idle girly gossip, then you're very very wrong. This fortnight is the start of our equivalent of the block exams. Dun dun dun!

Of course, it's still a whole lot easier than what I experienced in Uni or high school, with merely a competent/incompetent grade. So unless I forget to hand in my brief or try to do things that are obviously wrong (like applying foundation under primer) or unhygienic (using products straight from the tube), I should pass. Still makes me nervous to think I'm being assessed on anything, though!

We will be getting an hour for our practical assessment but will need to prepare our makeup briefs and face charts prior for:

• Mature Age
• Oriental
• Bridal
• Colour Fashion Photography
• Fashion catwalk

Assessments? Pff, nothing beats real life practice. Taeyang-inspired photoshoot to put my male makeup skills to the test!

The makeup briefs will contain design and concept explainations, detailed makeup application, products list with prices, face chart design, and possible contingencies. Visual diary pages will also need to be done up for each look. It might not sound a lot, but sure adds up to a pretty intensive 2 weeks.

Models will have to also be arranged by ourselves unless we buddy up with another student to be each other's models. Personally, since I don't have to turn up on days I don't have assessments, I'd rather find my own model and spend the days off finishing my briefs.

Wish me luck!

xxEva

Toombul Shire Town Hall. The place we had planned to do the Burlesque shoot

Barely stepping into the industry and I'm already making my first rant. Lack of common courtesy and issues of unprofessionalism really grates on me.

Got stood up by 2 models for a burlesque shoot, who couldn't even be bothered to contact the photographer, hair stylist and I about their inability to show in advance. I was particularly upset with this one as we had booked a hall, waited for 2 hours hoping they'll show (one finally replied to our posts saying she was held up), and then being out of pocket for the hall booking fee because they refused to pay the full cost, saying we had originally agreed to split it. Yes, but that was on the premise that you'd turn up for the shoot. Anyway, it's not about the money, but their total lack of integrity for such rudeness. I may have forgiven them if they tried to make amends for such behaviour or even offered up sincere apologies. As it is, I have no intention of ever working with those 2 particular models ever again.

Testing Flower Eye concept on myself day before the planned Florimage shoot

If that wasn't enough, another short notice cancellation from a model happened barely a week afterwards. This model had originally dropped out on us because she misread the date of shoot and contact the photographer (Florimage) about not being able to make it...on the day of the shoot. Ok, fine, easy human error to make. So we rescheduled. Florimage left periodic messages on her Model Mayhem and Facebook regarding details of shoot, with no reply. On the day of the shoot, Florimage contacted her again to confirm time and location, only to have her message back 4 hours before the shoot to claim she has no money and cannot get to shoot location. When asked why it took her this long to notify us, she said she had hoped to have found transport prior to date. And you didn't bother to contact us regarding your difficulty because...? I mean, if she gave enough notice, either the photographer or I would have arranged something to help her out. Florimage was a bit more forgiving and brushed it off with the excuse she's only 18. Only? If she's legal, she should be aware of basic manners. Good luck staying in the industry with that sort of behaviour!

Abandoned warehouse Florimage found to test some photoshoot concepts. I was the stand-in model

Bah, if I had the looks and poise, I would just be the model and MUA myself. Or if I can somehow convince one of my sisters... Florimage and I decided to scout out another place for an experimental shoot instead, which worked well enough for us to mark it as a good location to revisit.

xxEva

Touching up Elle's makeup behind the scenes of my first photoshoot with Florimage and Trev

Just for fun, here's a list I've compiled for laughs about stuff I've caught myself doing as a makeup artist. Nod if you agree to any!

1. You automatically assess everyone you meet on their face shape, skin tone, skin condition, eye shape, brow grooming, and lip shape.
2. You critically assess the makeup of every girl you meet and mentally note where they could have made improvments or get inspiration for looks to try out yourself.
3. You have a whole train case full of makeup, a bathroom of cosmetics, and stacks of product in your bedroom, but still can't resist buying the latest season of M.A.C colours.
4. You have makeup-related dreams.
5. Yes, there IS a difference between sunshine yellow and buttercup yellow.
6. It is impossible for you to pass by a beauty counter or display without stopping and test-swatching a few items.
7. You are never completely happy with your makeup work and can always find something to adjust/wishing you could adjust.
8. You would get up to wash your brushes even after going to bed because you suddenly remembered they're not fully cleaned.
9. You refuse to let anyone touch your brushes unless it's allowing another makeup artist a few seconds to admire them.
10. Losing a favourite brush almost makes you go into mourning.

xxEva

Definitely not your average children's face painting class. We've had to up the ante and complete a full face of makeup in a design of our choosing. While I don't mind sugar skulls, I find their combination of horror and cuteness a bit mismatched for my liking. Instead, mixing up my love for anime and makeup, I decided to recreate Ichigo's half mask from Bleach. :)

And let's just say, face painting truely isn't as easy as it looks. There is nowhere to lean on that wouldn't smudge the makeup, and it is very difficult to make thin, sharp, clean lines. In between movement, blinking and product not dispensing evenly, I managed to finish Shelley's makeup within the hour.

While greasepaint may be theatrically effective, it is a pain in the butt to work with and smudged easily (especially on eyelids).  The product never really dries, and I ended up with it all over my hands and brushes by the end of class.

Speaking of brushes, I seemed to have lost my small, thin concealer brush. *Sniffles* It may have either been lost in class or on location at a photoshoot afterwards. Model pulled out and I ended up being a stand-in at an abandoned warehouse location instead of recreating a flower eye at Florimage studios. I'm hoping pretty hard that it may have dropped somewhere close, but don't recall cleaning it last night with my other bunch of brushes. May have to just buy it again... :(


xxEva

No, we're not actually talking about drag makeup here or even to make guys look more feminine (yes, there is a difference between drag vs male to female makeup). This is makeup targeted towards guys through spot concealling, minimal foundation, light contouring, and a dusting of powder to prevent shine.

We had to all bring in male models, whether through bribery, blackmail, or convincing them that this is what all footballers, tv presenters, and film actors go through to look good on camera. There was a surprising turnout on the night. While most guys are probably terrified over the throught of having makeup done on them, I personally think some are quite curious as to what exactly this involves.

Welcome to our world, boys!

My model had totally the wrong idea about what he's agreed to. We're not trying to make you look girly; we're actually attempting to enhance your masculine features to keep you looking hot! Doing makeup on guys is the ultimate test on the 'made up but no makeup' look. :) It really does take skill to put just enough for coverage, but not so much that can be seen.

Here's how to get your guy looking male-model perfect without seeming gay:

1. Cleanse the face. Just because they're a guy doesn't mean they won't have oils and other dirt on their face. In fact, it's probably even more important to do this and have them looking clean and fresh.
2. Apply a thin layer of moisturiser to dry areas of the face and minimal on oily zones
3. - Use a matte lip balm on lips. I find guy lips are notoriously dry. Word of caution: do not, and I repeat: DO NOT use gloss!
4. Spot conceal only on blemishes, discolourations and places that really require this. Small problem spots can be smoothed over by foundation instead.
5. Use foundation sparingly in a stipple motion. Try not to drag and leave streaks. Remember, he's a guy; minimal coverage please! Oh, and don't forget tops of ears (male ears tend to be a little more red).
6. If the face looks a little too pale (guys do require darker tones), add colour back with some matte bronzer. No shimmer, no sparkles, no gloss.
7. While the bronzer's out, do a bit of subtle contour along the jawline. Keep angles sharp to create the illusion of a chiseled (square) jaw, not a feminine oval.
8. Don't forget to do a light dusting of translucent powder over the face. Specifically, on oily eyelids and down t-zones.
9. Lastly, give eyebrows a quick brush-over. Groom the hairs up and out so they're not looking too polished.

I was very very pleased with my work on David (brave boy! I can't thank him enough for turning up as my model). The makeup was pretty much undetectable and Dave was happy to leave it on while we had dinner in the City and I shouted him dessert as thanks.

Think I've found my specialty in natural makeup! Not surprising, since I'd much rather help people look amazing than help create an undead hoard. =d

xxEva

My in-class corporate makeup on the beautiful Cassie

Possibly the most conservative of the makeup types I've done so far. Think corporate ads; this look is all about looking natural, professional, and seeming trustworthy enough for you to happily hand your money over.

With a well rested, hydrated complexion, bright eyes, and a disarming smile, the I-just-naturally-look-this-amazing-straight-out-of-bed makeup can be a daytime staple. There is also room to build on the look to take you straight from day to night, office to party.

Here's how it's done:

1. Moisturise face and prime eyes.
2. Apply a light, neutral colour wash over the entire eye area (a hint of shimmer here is ok).
3. Add depth with a layer of colour in a medium dusty tone (brown, pink or purples work well) over mobile lids to socket line.
4. If the browbone is fairly protruding with an overhang, use a darker shade just under the browbone in a socket eye technique. Otherwise, dab the darker shade on the outer corners, and blend inwards.
5. Line eyes with a straight, flat eyeliner brush swiped in dark brown eyeshadow. This blends better and gives a softer look than pencil liners.
6. Curl lashes and apply 2 coats of mascara. For Cassie's look, I also chose to add 5 thin, individual lashes from outer corners; not enough to detect, but just enough to give her eyes a bit more emphasis. Windows to the soul and all...
7. Prime the face and spot conceal. Spot concealling is the best way to keep from looking like you've applied too much makeup.
8. Brush on foundation and sponge off excess.
9. Brows should be well groomed and darkened into a natural curve with eyeshadow. Fix any stray hairs with brow fix to last the long work hours.
10. Blush should be swiped gently in a lazy-j motion from apples and dragged out to temples. Blend colour down into hollows for slight contouring.
11. Line lips with natural coloured lip liner and swipe on lipstick that is a shade darker than natural lips. You know, those tones that arn't usually as exciting to wear and kinda inbetween pinks and browns?
12. Finish with a slick of gloss to keep the look fresh. Try not to overdo the gloss. This is just to add a hint of moisture.

Now go out and climb that corporate ladder while looking effortlessly chic!

xxEva

Good makeup artists are not only determined by their creativity and makeup skill, but also by their speed, resourcefulness, and ability to coordinate with others. In the whirwind rainbow world of fashion, time is short, models are plenty, and the show must go on.

Fashion catwalk makeup is roughly split into two categories:
Conservative
Where the clothes take priority and the makeup complements, but does not overpower the collection.
Creative
Makeup can make a statement, be bold, colourful, downright weird, and generally not suited for a trip to the supermarket.

Conservative fashion catwalk makeup on Shelley based on Kelsie's face chart design

The sessions for fashion catwalk were adrenaline-inducing and marked a turning point in our training where we start to hone our application skills and speed, as all the basic techniques were now covered. Our trainers initiated scenarios and challenged us to apply a full face of makeup in 20mins, with bad lighting, inconvienient positions, last-minute changes, use of pre-designed face charts or looks from magazine tearouts without prior preparation. We also ran a production line, apointed a 'head makeup artist' to coordinate a team of makeup artists, work from the same face chart for a uniformed look, and designed our own high-fashion face chart to carry out in 45 minutes.

Creative fashion catwalk makeup based on Dior's makeup on Toni

I found it was difficult to work from a face chart to apply the same look as everyone else. There's a lot that's open to interpretation. Because of the large variation in model features, bold brows on one may be arched, while on another is straight. Porcelain skin could look absolutely natural on Sami, but completely clown-like on Toni, etc. Without a prior demo, detailed instructions, and a dominant makeup artist (this was a different activity from the production line with Head MUA), there was an interesting variation on looks despite everyone using the same products in the same colours.

Bird of Paradise (rushed) look on Sami. Not my greatest attempt. Would like to recreate later.

On the creative side, we each had to design a makeup look based on a theme from a choice between Birds of Paradise, Futuristic, Dark Angel, and Dolls. I picked Birds of Paradise and chose to base my makeup on the colours of the Greater Bird of Paradise, with brown, yellow and whites. To be honest, I whipped up the look within the hour morning before class because I've just had no time to do it otherwise. I incorporated feathers into the look but only just realised that it's way too late to find feather eyelashes, so I sliced up some craft feathers to use as lashes. Let's just say it didn't turn out as well as I had hoped and the end result looked like she's had a run-in with a chicken. Recreating this look better in a future attempt is now on my to-do list.

While AOM trainers are highly supportive and utterly professional, my one gripe was the lack of detailed criticisms during class-work. I felt like my application was glanced at and declared 'fabulous!' while even I wasn't completely happy with it! Surely no makeup is so perfect there can't be improvements? These are the times when I really really would appreciate some sort of nit-picking suggestions.

On the other hand, I hope trainers arn't going to be anal when it comes to our makeup practical assessments!

xxEva