Makeup School: Day 46 & 47 - Advanced Airbrushing

What can airbrush do? Contrary to what you might think, airbrushing is not just for applying foundation. In fact, if you're shelling out good money only to get your foundation airbrushed, then you just got ripped off. Any makeup artist that advertises airbrushing but only use it to apply foundation is technically false advertising.

Here's what you should get for the full airbrushing experience:

  • Concealing (this may be done prior to foundation the traditional way using spot concealing techniques)
  • Foundation (with further spot concealing using airbrush if necessary)
  • Highlighting
  • Contouring
  • Blush
  • 3-colour eye makeup (colour wash, shadow, outer corners)

Airbrushing can also be used to define brows and apply eyeliner. However, personal experience has found this to be too invasive on the sensitive eye area. Not only will the eyes be blasted with cold air, but there is a slight gritty sensation when product is sprayed on the eyes. Why make your model uncomfortable when traditional methods will work just as well (if not better)?

I love the airbrush for its endurability...if you use silicone-based products (aqua-based will sweat off instantly). Not only did my makeup survived a day of moving outdoors, eating, absentminded touching of the face, and other abuse, it didn't come off until I swiped it with makeup remover. As airbrushing uses such minimal product, there was a surprisingly little amount to remove.

Feedback from people with sensitive skin have reported slight rashes and irritation if airbrushed makeup is left on too long. However, I've had no problems so far on all my models (including myself), but I do recommend a test patch just in case. It is also never a good idea to keep makeup on for more than a day. While we all know how bad it is to leave your makeup on overnight, if you're desperate (5am starts, anyone?), airbrushing will definitely last the night (still not recommended tho!).

xxEva

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Nail Art: Midnight Spot Lights

Among the bottles of Skinfood Nail Vita polishes a girl friend lent me, I found this fabulous dark red with a subtle aubergine glitter. Unfortunately, it didn't go on as well as I hoped as the polish was drying up and the glitter was barely noticeable once applied. In fact, my OPI Rapi-Dry top coat covered up what little glitter that showed through and made the polish look goopy and black.

Oh well.

The design was inspired by waving, criss-crossing movie premiere spot lights against a purply night sky.

Products used:
  • China Glaze Strong Adhesion Base Coat
  • Skinfood Nail Vita VI407 Puppy Purple
  • OPI Rapi-Dry Top Coat
  • Silver nail strips
  • Silver 3mm rhinestones


xxEva

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Makeup School: Day 43 & 44 - Basic Airbrushing

Ahh, here we go, this is what I've been waiting for throughout my course. Airbrushing! Some of you may think it's the HG (Holy Grail) of makeup, some may dismiss it as a passing fad. Whatever the case, airbrushing is a whole skill to itself and has its own pros and cons.

Essentially, you need an airbrush machine. Mine is the Temptu Pro S-One Compressor with an SP-35 airbrush gun. It's small, portable, and easy to use with a dual-action airflow. Hub Make Up has a whole kit for sale if you're interested in getting one for yourself. However, there is an even smaller (and newer!) system for sale, so if you're not thinking of using it professionally, I suggest getting a little one instead.

There is also an instructional DVD that comes in the kit. We had to watch it in class as part of their WH&S policies, but it's easy to follow.

Recreating Illamasqua's 'Throb' look
with airbrush and brush makeup
Airbrushing is all about controlling the airflow of the gun (yes, it's called a 'gun'). The SP-35 gun has two settings: push directly down to expel air, and pull back the trigger to release colour. The further back you pull, the more colour is sprayed out.

It's good practice to test on paper when starting. This helps in getting familiar with the pressure and airflow of the airbrush. I commenced with drawing circles, writing words, and using a children's colouring-in book to practice accuracy and colour within lines.

The main things to remember with airbrushing is:
  • Press gun trigger down before switching on compressor. This releases air and prevents build-up of pressure inside the machine (Supposedly. But I'm not going to test the theory).
  • Press trigger down before switching off compressor to expel all air and prevent product blockages.
  • If you can see colour coming out of the gun, you're over-spraying.
  • Learn to listen to your airbrush machine. There is a distinctive 'spitting' sound when product is released from the gun (as opposed to only air being released).
  • Be patient and let the product dry for a few minutes before spraying on another layer to build up the colour.

Oh, and do not mix aqua-base and silicone-based airbrush paints. Remember first year chemistry? Water and oil (well, silicon) doesn't mix and will clog your airbrush!

xxEva

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Makeup School: Day 38-42 - Wounds, Burns & Blisters

Not that I'm queasy with blood and cuts, but it certainly makes them easier to look at knowing they're fake. Cut wrists, head gashes, severed fingers, stitches and burns. Enough to make any weak stomach heave, right?

Anyway, special effects can be messy, but these classes were definitely some of the most fun. The products used were mostly the same, though:
  • Wax
  • Greasepaint
  • Stage blood
  • Scab blood
  • Latex
  • Vaseline

Again, these should be modelled after real wounds. For me, that meant a few hours researching the most horrific injury images Google could find. Good thing I did it all before dinner.

For burns, it's working with latex again (mostly on arms and hands so it does't hurt as much to rip it off later). The latex should only be applied on areas to be worked on, with the 'raw' areas coloured in with greasepaint.

Blisters are also easy to recreate. It's really just drops of Ben Nye Flesh Effects on the latex 'skin', set with translucent powder.

Have fun horrifying people. Word of warning though: unless it's halloween (and even then, use discretion), never ever allow a model to wander the streets with a bloody head gash or any other crazy SPFX makeup. It's all fun and games until the police gets involved...

xxEva

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Nail Art: Red Flakey with Rhinestones

Clearly I come up with the most exotic names for my nail designs. Not. Anyone want to volunteer? At least it's descriptive, right? :P

In any case, here's my current nails using OPI mini 'Red Lights Ahead...Where?' from the Holland Collection. I absolutely love love this red. It is a bright, coral-red creme that applies smoothly and is fully opaque with one coat.

I've avoided orange for years, but ever since finding out that orange colours suit me (from doing my 7 Deadly Sins: Gluttony shoot), I've been going nuts for anything in that shade spectrum.

Just goes to show it's always good to keep an open mind...

And just to spice things up a bit, I've gone for a flakey top coat. :)

Products used:
  • OPI mini Red Lights Ahead...Where (Holland Collection)
  • Australis Crystal Colour Top Coat 51077 Speck-tacular
  • Black & silver rhinestones (~2mm)

xxEva

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