Flawless Foundation: Faking Perfect Skin

Complete face makeup & neutral eyes

One of the hardest, but most important, skill of a Makeup Artist is creating a smooth, blemish-free base canvas. Not only does it mean better end results, but will also save time in post-production retouching. Let's face it (pun not intended), all professional photos nowadays are more or less retouched.

Skin tends to change colour under different environments and lighting, so it's best to select a few foundation shades to mix-and-match to the different areas of the face. For instance, one that blends perfectly into your jawline, one that's a shade or two darker, and one that's a shade or two lighter. I'm not into the whole tanning thing, so I generally select a foundation that's a shade paler than my natural skin tone. Not only do I find it better matches the neck (usually a lighter shade to the face), but also brightens my entire complexion.

Tip: Give a quick glance to the skin colour of the rest of the body (ie. arms). Makeup artists always put a cape over their clients so remember to peek at the model's arms to make sure their face will match!

There's a few ways to apply foundation: with a brush, sponge, or fingers. I prefer using fingers to apply my own makeup as it warms the liquid and I can accurately feel my way around the face. On clients, I prefer using brushes or sponges as it's more hygienic and professional. However, most people wouldn't mind you using fingers (so long as the hands are clean!) because the power of touch can better guide your application. Sponges are also good to save time on cleaning brushes in between models. They can be tossed out or washed later when finished.

Getting my foundation & concealer done by makeup artist Laura Bell

Foundation can be applied either before or after concealer. I'm more used to applying it after, but if used underneath, it can smooth out the skin and require less additional cover up.

I start foundation application by using a brush to dab it all around the face from forehead down. This gives a good measure of how much I'm applying to each area. Alternatively, you could finish one area before moving onto the next. Remember, there is no 'correct' way, so do what you are comfortable with!

A sheer layer provides initial, light coverage and allows me to determine the areas that requires additional layering. Try not to cake on too much; some areas of the skin may not need any at all!

For combination skin, you can also alternate the use of liquid and powder foundation. Dry or normal skin on the cheeks would work with liquid foundation, while oily T-zone areas may require mousse or powder products to prevent shine.

Be careful not to 'wipe' foundation over areas where you have already concealed. This will just wipe off the concealer. Instead, dab over these areas. Sponges are great for this as you can turn over to a clean side and use that to soak up any excess foundation. Cover unconcealed areas however you like.

I love a dewy, fresh face, so I rarely use powder (if at all). It gives a clean, I-just-washed-my-face look that minimises the appearance of wearing makeup. The skin should seem healthy and translucent, with a natural blush showing through (also a reason why I rarely apply blush. Less makeup = less irritation = better skin!).

xxEva