Makeup School: Day 43 & 44 - Basic Airbrushing

Ahh, here we go, this is what I've been waiting for throughout my course. Airbrushing! Some of you may think it's the HG (Holy Grail) of makeup, some may dismiss it as a passing fad. Whatever the case, airbrushing is a whole skill to itself and has its own pros and cons.

Essentially, you need an airbrush machine. Mine is the Temptu Pro S-One Compressor with an SP-35 airbrush gun. It's small, portable, and easy to use with a dual-action airflow. Hub Make Up has a whole kit for sale if you're interested in getting one for yourself. However, there is an even smaller (and newer!) system for sale, so if you're not thinking of using it professionally, I suggest getting a little one instead.

There is also an instructional DVD that comes in the kit. We had to watch it in class as part of their WH&S policies, but it's easy to follow.

Recreating Illamasqua's 'Throb' look with airbrush and brush makeup

Airbrushing is all about controlling the airflow of the gun (yes, it's called a 'gun'). The SP-35 gun has two settings: push directly down to expel air, and pull back the trigger to release colour. The further back you pull, the more colour is sprayed out.

It's good practice to test on paper when starting. This helps in getting familiar with the pressure and airflow of the airbrush. I commenced with drawing circles, writing words, and using a children's colouring-in book to practice accuracy and colour within lines.

The main things to remember with airbrushing is:

• Press gun trigger down before switching on compressor. This releases air and prevents build-up of pressure inside the machine (Supposedly. But I'm not going to test the theory).
• Press trigger down before switching off compressor to expel all air and prevent product blockages.
• If you can see colour coming out of the gun, you're over-spraying.
• Learn to listen to your airbrush machine. There is a distinctive 'spitting' sound when product is released from the gun (as opposed to only air being released).
• Be patient and let the product dry for a few minutes before spraying on another layer to build up the colour.

Oh, and do not mix aqua-base and silicone-based airbrush paints. Remember first year chemistry? Water and oil (well, silicon) doesn't mix and will clog your airbrush!

xxEva